If you are just starting out with 3D printing, choose PLA — it is the most forgiving filament you will find on the market. It prints at low temperatures (nozzle 190–220 °C, bed 50–60 °C), requires no enclosure or any special printer upgrades, and it forgives most beginner mistakes. Leave PETG, TPU and ABS for later — each has its strengths, but none of them is as trouble-free at the start. Below we explain why PLA is the right choice, what to avoid in your first weeks, and which settings to start with.
Why PLA is the best filament to start with
PLA (polylactic acid) is a material produced from plant-based feedstock such as corn starch and sugar cane. In the 3D printing world it plays the role of the "first contact" material — and for good reason. A few concrete traits give it the edge:
- Low printing temperature. Most PLA prints in the 190–220 °C range, well within the capabilities of any printer, even the cheapest one. Heating the bed to 50–60 °C is enough, and many people print PLA even on a cold bed with the right adhesion surface.
- Minimal shrinkage. PLA barely shrinks as it cools. In practice this means print corners do not lift off the bed and large models keep their dimensions. Shrinkage is the main source of frustration with ABS.
- No hardware requirements. You do not need an enclosure, a high-flow hotend or a special bed surface. A printer straight out of the box is perfectly sufficient.
- Comfortable to use at home. PLA emits very little odour while printing — just a faint, slightly sweet smell. Even so, it is worth printing in a ventilated room, as that is a good habit with any material.
- A huge choice of colours and variants. From classic colours, through silk finishes, to composites with wood or stone — no other material offers this much visual variety.
PLA does have its limits. It starts to soften at around 55–60 °C, so it is not suitable for parts left in a car in summer or components working close to heat sources. It is also stiff but relatively brittle — under impact loads it cracks instead of flexing. At the beginning of your journey, though, this is a non-issue: figurines, prototypes, organisers, decorations and most household prints need nothing more.
PLA, PETG, TPU or ABS? A quick comparison
Before we move on, take a look at the four most popular materials side by side. The "difficulty" column tells you exactly what you are signing up for:
| Material | Printing difficulty | Nozzle | Bed | Typical applications |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| PLA | very easy | 190–220 °C | 50–60 °C | models, prototypes, decorations, organisers |
| PETG | medium | 220–250 °C | 70–80 °C | functional parts, mechanical components |
| TPU | hard | 210–230 °C | 30–60 °C | gaskets, shock-absorbing housings, straps |
| ABS / ASA | hard (needs an enclosure) | 230–260 °C | 90–110 °C | technical parts, outdoor components |
You will find up-to-date temperature ranges for all materials in our temperature table — it is worth keeping at hand when you reach for your next filament.
What to avoid in your first weeks
The biggest beginner mistake is not choosing the wrong first filament — it is reaching too quickly for materials that require experience. Here is a short list of things best left on the shelf for now:
- ABS and ASA — high shrinkage means lifting corners and cracking layers, and printing without an enclosure is essentially a lottery. Add to that a strong odour and the need for ventilation.
- Nylon (PA) — it absorbs moisture from the air remarkably fast and needs drying before practically every print. Without a filament dryer, repeatable results are hard to achieve.
- Carbon-fibre composites — the fibres wear down a brass nozzle surprisingly quickly. Without a hardened or steel nozzle, this is a straight path to damaging your printer.
- TPU and other flexible materials — soft filament can tangle inside the extruder, especially in Bowden setups. It is a material for later, once you know your printer well.
The good news: none of these materials is going anywhere. Once you master PLA and PETG, all of the above become a natural next step — instead of a source of discouragement at the start.
How to recognise a good filament
Even the best settings will not help if the filament itself is poor quality. When choosing your first spool, pay attention to a few things:
- Diameter tolerance. A good filament has a declared tolerance of ±0.02–0.05 mm. The smaller the diameter variation, the more even the extrusion and the more repeatable your prints.
- Even winding. Crossed loops on the spool can jam the feed mid-print — and ruin a print after many hours of work.
- Vacuum packaging with a desiccant. Filament absorbs moisture already at the storage stage. Airtight packaging with a desiccant is a sign the manufacturer takes the subject seriously.
- Printing parameters provided. A reliable manufacturer states recommended nozzle and bed temperatures for each specific material, not one universal range for the entire range of products.
Starting settings for PLA
If you are not sure where to begin, set the nozzle to 200–210 °C, the bed to 60 °C and turn part cooling to 100% from the second layer. Print the first layer more slowly — around 20–30 mm/s — and do not skimp on time spent levelling the bed. These four decisions solve most of the problems beginners struggle with. For a full breakdown of how temperature affects print quality, see our guide to PLA printing temperature.
Most common mistakes
- Printing with damp filament. Popping sounds during printing, stringing and a matte surface are classic symptoms of moisture. We cover prevention in our guide to storing and drying filament.
- Changing all the settings at once. When something goes wrong, change one parameter at a time and print a small test. Otherwise you will never know what actually helped.
- Ignoring the first layer. The vast majority of failed prints start with a poorly adhering first layer. Give it more attention than anything else.
- Buying a random filament. A spool with no stated tolerance or printing parameters can cost you more nerves than the price difference compared to a proven material.
- Overly ambitious first projects. Start with small, simple models. A multi-hour print on day three of your journey is a recipe for frustration when something goes wrong in the final hour.
Frequently asked questions
Is printing with PLA safe at home?
PLA is among the materials with the lowest emission of odours and volatile compounds during printing. Even so, it is good practice to print in a room that can be ventilated and not to sit right next to a running printer for hours.
Do I need a printer with an enclosure to start?
No. PLA and PETG print without issues on open-frame printers. An enclosure only becomes important with high-shrinkage materials such as ABS or ASA.
When should I move from PLA to PETG?
When your prints start doing real work: brackets, mechanical parts, components exposed to heat or moisture. PETG is more heat-resistant and less brittle, but it requires higher temperatures and more deliberate settings.
How should I store filament?
Dry and airtight: ideally in a sealable container or zip bag with a desiccant. A spool left open in the air for a few weeks often needs drying before the next print.
How do I know my filament has absorbed moisture?
The most common symptoms are popping and hissing during extrusion, heavy stringing, brittle layers and a matte, uneven print surface. Drying usually restores the material's full properties.
If you are looking for a proven material for your first prints, browse our PLA filament collection. Porima PLA is a good starting point — predictable in printing, available in a wide range of colours and vacuum-packed with a desiccant, so it reaches you dry and ready to print.