News

Mapa poradników druku 3D — od pierwszej szpuli do pełnej kalibracji
Wszystkie nasze poradniki w jednym miejscu, ułożone w logicznej kolejności: wybór materiału, ustawienia temperatur, kalibracja drukarki i rozwiązywanie problemów. Read more...
Test ściany z niedomiarem materiału mierzony suwmiarką — widoczne przerwy przy flow rate poniżej 95%
Under-Extrusion — How to Diagnose Material Shortfall
Under-extrusion: how to spot the symptoms, check your nozzle and idler, dry your filament, and correctly calibrate flow rate and e-steps. Read more...
Elephant foot na wydruku testowym — poszerzenie podstawy 0,1–0,3 mm mierzone suwmiarką obok szpuli filamentu.
Elephant Foot — How to Remove a Spread First Layer
Elephant foot comes from a too-low Z-offset and a too-hot bed. Here is how to measure it, calibrate it, and remove it from the first layer for good. Read more...
Pomiar wymiaru wydrukowanej części suwmiarką — sprawdzanie pasowania ±0,1–0,3 mm w osiach X/Y i Z.
Tolerances and Fits in 3D Printing — How to Hit the Right Dimension
The standard FDM 3D printing tolerance is ±0.2–0.5 mm in X/Y. Learn how to design loose, sliding and press fits, and how to compensate holes in your slicer. Read more...
Wydruk 3D ze śladami złego chłodzenia — widoczne nitkowanie i nierówna, oklapnięta górna warstwa.
Print Cooling — What Fan Speed Percentage for Each Material?
What fan speed percentage should you use for PLA, PETG, ABS, ASA, TPU and nylon? Cooling settings table and the most common 3D printing mistakes. Read more...
Kalibracja Linear Advance i Pressure Advance — pomiar suwmiarką wydruku testowego przy drukarce 3D.
Linear Advance / Pressure Advance — What It Is and How to Set It
Linear Advance and Pressure Advance: how they differ, how to calibrate them step by step, and which K/PA values to set for Bowden and Direct Drive. Read more...
Retrakcja Bowden i Direct Drive — dysza podczas druku; wartości 3–6 mm (Bowden), 0,6–2 mm (Direct Drive).
Retraction — Settings for Bowden and Direct Drive
How much retraction should you use on Bowden vs Direct Drive? Concrete values, a settings table, and a step-by-step retraction tower test. Read more...
Kalibracja e-steps ekstrudera — pomiar filamentu suwmiarką przy wylocie ekstrudera na stanowisku warsztatowym
Extruder E-Steps Calibration — 15 Minutes That Change Everything
How to correctly calibrate extruder e-steps: the formula, the marker measurement method for Bowden and Direct Drive, and the mistakes that skew your test result. Read more...
Pomiar suwmiarką grubości ścianki testowego sześcianu podczas kalibracji przepływu (flow) filamentu w druku 3D.
Flow Calibration — Step-by-Step Guide
How to calibrate filament flow step by step: a simple caliper test, the formula for a new value, and the most common calibration mistakes. Read more...
Wypełnienie 20% w przekroju wydruku PLA — widoczny wzór żyroidy obok szpuli filamentu Porima.
How Much Infill Do You Really Need?
How much infill should you use for decorative prints, everyday items, and structural parts? Concrete values and patterns for PLA, PETG, and TPU. Read more...
Ustawienia wysokości warstwy druku 3D — zakres 0,10–0,30 mm dla dyszy 0,4 mm, domyślne 0,20 mm
Layer Height 0.1 / 0.2 / 0.3 mm — What to Choose and When
Layer height 0.1, 0.2, or 0.3 mm? Check the practical range for a 0.4 mm nozzle, a starting-settings table, and the most common mistakes. Read more...
Szpula filamentu Porima obok pracującej drukarki 3D — dobór prędkości druku do materiału i konfiguracji sprzętu.
3D Printing Speed — How Many mm/s for Each Material?
What print speed should you use for PLA, PETG, ABS, TPU and nylon? Starting tables, printer configurations and how to avoid mistakes at higher speeds. Read more...
Drukarka 3D z podgrzewanym stołem i szpulą filamentu — temperatury: PLA 50–60 °C, PETG 70–80 °C, ABS/ASA 90–110 °C.
Bed Temperature for PLA, PETG, ABS and ASA
Exact bed temperatures for PLA, PETG, ABS and ASA, ready-to-use settings for popular printer setups, and the most common mistakes that cause warping. Read more...
Czarny wydruk 3D pęknięty wzdłuż linii warstwy — widoczne rozwarstwienie na przekroju
Layer Delamination in 3D Printing — Causes and Fixes
Delamination usually clears up once you raise nozzle temperature and cut cooling. See causes and settings for PLA, PETG, ABS, and ASA. Read more...
Różne szpule filamentu i wydrukowane części testowe na stole warsztatowym
10 Myths About 3D Printing We Still Believe
Ten of the most repeated myths about 3D printing — from 100 % infill to PLA biodegradability. We check what is true and what only sounds sensible. Read more...
Dysza drukarki układa równe, spłaszczone linie pierwszej warstwy na tabli drukarki
First Layer — Settings That Fix 90% of Print Problems
Ready-made first layer settings: height, speed, Z-offset, temperature and cooling. Plus a list of mistakes that ruin a print from the very start. Read more...
Zawilgocony filament PETG — chropowata, pęcherzykowata powierzchnia świeżo wytłoczonej żyłki
Wet Filament — The Symptoms You Must Not Ignore
How to spot wet filament: popping in the nozzle, a dull matte surface, stringing that survives every retraction tweak. Three tests and a drying table for every material. Read more...
Udrażnianie zapchanej dyszy — cold pull: wygrzanie 240–250 °C, zrywanie przy 90 °C, igła 0,35 mm
Clogged Nozzle — How to Clear It Step by Step
Clogged nozzle? Learn three ways to clear it: a needle, a cold pull and full disassembly. Exact temperatures, common mistakes and prevention that keeps clogs away. Read more...
Porównanie PLA i ABS — dysza 190–220 °C vs 230–260 °C, stół 50–60 °C vs 90–110 °C
PLA or ABS? The Comparison That Ends the Debate
PLA or ABS? We compare print settings, strength, heat resistance and printing safety to settle once and for all which filament you should choose. Read more...
Stringing w druku 3D — cienkie nitki filamentu rozpięte między dwiema wieżami testowymi
Stringing — where it comes from and how to get rid of it
Thin plastic hairs between the walls of your print are called stringing. Here is how to tune retraction and temperature — and when moisture in the filament is to blame. Read more...
Dwie szpule filamentu, biała i bursztynowa, obok kompaktowej drukarki 3D na biurku
Which Filament Should You Start With? A Beginner's Guide
Starting out in 3D printing? Here's which filament to pick first, which materials to avoid and which settings will give you successful prints from day one. Read more...
Wydruk 3D z odklejoną pierwszą warstwą na stole drukarki — typowy problem z przyczepnością
Print Not Sticking to the Bed — 9 Causes and Fixes
First layer won’t stick to the bed? Check the 9 most common causes — from Z-offset to a greasy plate — and fix the problem in minutes. Read more...
Druk z TPU — elastyczny filament: dysza 220–235 °C, prędkość 20–30 mm/s, retrakcja 0,5–1,5 mm
TPU — How to Print Flexible Filaments Without Jams
A complete guide to printing TPU: 220–235 °C nozzle, 20–30 mm/s speed, retraction and drying. Learn how to print flexible filaments without extruder jams. Read more...
Filament Porima PLA — parametry druku: dysza 200–230 °C, stół 0–60 °C, chłodzenie 100 %
Porima PLA — Parameters, Settings and Applications
A complete guide to Porima PLA: 200–230 °C nozzle, 0–60 °C bed, 100% cooling, settings for Bowden, direct drive and AMS, plus the most common mistakes. Read more...
Ustawienia temperatury druku PETG — dysza 240–260 °C, stół 60–80 °C, chłodzenie 100 %
PETG printing temperature — complete settings
The optimal PETG temperature is 240–260 °C on the nozzle and 60–80 °C on the bed. See the full settings: cooling, speed, retraction and filament drying. Read more...
Czarny wydruk 3D z odklejonym i wygiętym w górę rogiem na stole drukarki — typowy przykład warpingu
Warping — why print corners lift off the bed and how to prevent it
One corner lifted off the bed and pulled a whole wall of the model with it? That's warping. We explain where it comes from, which filaments are most prone to... Read more...
Biała szpula filamentu Porima PLA obok szarej wieży temperaturowej wydrukowanej na stole drukarki
PLA print temperature — what to set for the nozzle, bed and fan
Nozzle 200–215 °C, bed 55–60 °C, cooling 100 %. See how to find the ideal temperature for your printer and your spool of PLA in twenty minutes. Read more...
Szpula Porima z białym filamentem w zamkniętym przezroczystym pudełku z analogowym higrometrem, na półce regału
How to store and dry filament? A practical guide
Moisture is the quietest enemy of good prints. We explain which filaments absorb water fastest, how to store them and how to dry them safely. Read more...
Szpula Porima z szarym filamentem obok zwoju refill bez szpuli, spiętego papierowymi opaskami, na warsztacie
Spool or Eco (spool-free)? How much you save with refills
The Eco version is the same Porima filament wound without a plastic spool — about 10 zł cheaper and with less waste. We explain how to print with refills. Read more...
Dwie szpule Porima na warsztacie: biały PLA i przezroczysty zielony PETG, obok wydrukowane kostki testowe
PLA or PETG — which filament should you choose?
PLA is easier to print, PETG is more durable. We compare both materials point by point and help you pick the right one for your project. Read more...