Print Porima PLA filament with the nozzle set to 200–230 °C (215 °C is a good starting point), the bed at 0–60 °C and cooling at 100%. That is all you need for a clean, smooth surface — Porima PLA is one of the easiest materials on the market and forgives most of the mistakes that end in a failed print with PETG or ABS. A heated bed is not required, neither is an enclosure, and the wide temperature window means the same profile works on almost any desktop printer.
In this guide you will find the complete set of parameters: a table of starting settings, the specification, tips for different hardware configurations and a list of the most common mistakes together with their fixes. Temperatures, cooling and drying come from the manufacturer's official FDM parameter table, while speeds and retraction are our own starting recommendation — there is nothing to guess or test blindly.
Porima PLA starting settings — table
| Parameter | Value | Comment |
|---|---|---|
| Nozzle temperature | 200–230 °C | Start at 215 °C and adjust in 5 °C steps |
| Bed temperature | 0–60 °C | Heated bed not required; 55–60 °C improves adhesion |
| Cooling | 100% | From the second or third layer; no cooling on the first layer |
| Print speed | 40–120 mm/s | 40–60 mm/s for the best surface quality |
| First layer | 20–30 mm/s | Slower means safer — it is the foundation of the whole print |
| Retraction (direct drive) | 0.5–1.0 mm | Retraction speed 35–45 mm/s |
| Retraction (Bowden) | 4–6 mm | A longer filament path needs a longer retraction |
| Enclosure | Not required | PLA likes access to fresh, cool air |
| Drying | 2–4 h / 30–40 °C | Only if the filament has been left unpacked for a long time |
| Heat resistance of the print | up to 60 °C | Do not leave prints in a hot car |
If you also print with other materials, take a look at our combined temperature table — you will find the ranges for PETG, ABS, ASA, TPU and nylon in one place.
Why is Porima PLA so easy to print?
PLA (polylactide) is a polymer with very low processing shrinkage. In practice this means the material barely changes its dimensions as it cools — corners do not lift off the bed, large flat surfaces do not warp, and the print keeps the dimensions of the design. This is exactly why PLA prints without a heated bed and without an enclosure, while ABS without one can crack halfway through a print.
The second reason is the wide processing window. The 200–230 °C range gives you a full 30 degrees of margin — even if your printer's thermistor is off by a few degrees or the hotend does not hold temperature perfectly, you are still in the safe zone. The manufacturer rates the ease of printing of Porima PLA at 5/5, the same as its surface quality — and it is hard to disagree, because the material flows evenly, does not clog the nozzle and needs no slicer tricks.
If you want a deeper understanding of how temperature affects the look and strength of a PLA print, read our separate guide on PLA printing temperature — it breaks down every degree in detail.
Technical specification — what the numbers say
Porima PLA has a diameter of 1.75 mm with a tolerance of ± 0.03 mm measured along the entire spool. This is a value worth paying attention to when choosing a filament: the more stable the diameter, the more even the material flow through the nozzle and the more repeatable the walls. A filament with a fluctuating diameter alternates between under- and over-extrusion, and no calibration can fix that.
The material density is 1.24 g/cm³, which at a net weight of 1 kg translates into roughly 335 metres of filament on the spool. The heat resistance of a finished print reaches 60 °C — above that limit PLA starts to soften, so it is not suitable for parts working next to motors, in full sun behind glass or inside another printer's chamber. Mechanically it sits in the middle of the field: strength 3/5 and flexibility 2/5 are enough for the vast majority of home and prototyping applications.
The line includes 18 colours — from classic RAL shades to pastels — and, importantly, every colour prints with the same profile. You change the spool, not the settings. The filament is also fully compatible with multi-material systems such as Bambu AMS and Creality CFS.
Nozzle temperature — finding your point in the 200–230 °C window
Start from the middle of the range, i.e. 215 °C, and print a temperature tower. Judge at which temperature the walls are smoothest, the bridges cleanest and the stringing smallest — and put that value into your profile. The general rule: lower temperatures give nicer details and fewer strings, higher ones give better layer bonding and higher strength. When printing fast, above 100 mm/s, move towards the top of the range, because the material has less time to melt.
Signs of a temperature that is too low
Layers bond poorly and the print cracks along the layer lines under light pressure. The surface is matte and rough, the extruder may skip, and in extreme cases gaps appear in the walls. If you see any of these symptoms, raise the temperature by 5 °C and compare the results.
Signs of a temperature that is too high
Stringing between parts, an oozing nozzle, rounded and “melted” details, glossy blobs on the walls and worse quality of bridges and overhangs. Overheated PLA becomes too fluid for the cooling to set it in time. Go down 5 °C and check again — two steps are usually enough to hit the optimum.
Bed, adhesion and cooling
Is a heated bed needed at all?
No — Porima PLA sticks to a clean PEI sheet or glass even cold, which is why the range starts at 0 °C. In practice, though, gently heating the bed to 55–60 °C improves first-layer adhesion and evens out small levelling imperfections. If your printer has a heated bed, simply use it; if it does not — nothing lost, a clean surface and a well-calibrated first layer are enough. Just remember not to exceed 60 °C, because an overly warm bed softens the bottom layers and encourages elephant foot.
100% cooling — why it matters
PLA sets quickly, but only when it has something to cool it. Full cooling from the second or third layer is the condition for sharp details, clean bridges and overhangs that do not droop. Print the first layer without the fan — it needs time to bond properly with the bed. If your printer has a weak part-cooling fan, limit the speed to 40–60 mm/s to give the material more time to solidify.
Print speed — 40–120 mm/s and when to slow down
The 40–120 mm/s range is our own starting recommendation — the manufacturer rates PLA print speed only descriptively (High Speed), with no figure given. It is a realistic range, not a marketing one. For figurines, decorative pieces and models with fine details stay in the lower half of the range — 40–60 mm/s gives the smoothest walls and the cleanest details. For prototypes and functional parts where time matters, you can happily print at 80–120 mm/s, remembering to raise the nozzle temperature closer to 225–230 °C. Always slow down for the first layer, bridges and places where a single layer takes only a few seconds — short layers need time to cool before the nozzle returns to the same spot.
Applications — what Porima PLA is best for
PLA's natural habitat is prototypes, figurines, decorations, concept models and education. High surface quality and a rich colour palette make it the first choice for anything that above all has to look good: architectural models, gadgets, covers, organisers, teaching aids or cosplay parts. Low odour emission and no need for an enclosure also make it the safest material for school workshops and a desk at home.
The limits of its applications are set by two properties: heat resistance up to 60 °C and moderate flexibility. A phone mount in a car in summer, a part working next to a stepper motor or a hinge flexed hundreds of times — those are jobs for ASA, PETG or TPU respectively. The rule is simple: if the part will get hot or is meant to flex, pick another material; in every other case PLA will do the job faster and better looking.
Drying and storage
A freshly unpacked spool is ready to print straight away — PLA absorbs moisture more slowly than PETG or nylon. However, if the filament has been out of its packaging for a few weeks and your prints show tiny bubbles, popping sounds during extrusion or a matte, rough surface, dry the spool for 2–4 hours at 30–40 °C. Be careful with higher temperatures: PLA softens as low as 60 °C, so guessing the drying temperature in an oven can fuse the windings on the spool. Day to day, keep the filament in a sealed container with a desiccant — you will find the details in our guide on storing and drying filament.
Settings for popular configurations
| Configuration | Nozzle | Retraction | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| Bowden (e.g. Ender 3) | 210–220 °C | 4–6 mm / 40 mm/s | Speed 40–60 mm/s, cooling 100% |
| Direct drive | 205–215 °C | 0.5–1.0 mm / 40 mm/s | A short retraction is enough, less stringing |
| Fast CoreXY | 225–230 °C | per the printer manufacturer's profile | Speed 100–120 mm/s, strong cooling is a must |
| Printer with AMS / CFS | 210–220 °C | per the system profile | Porima PLA is fully compatible with multi-material systems |
| Enclosed printer | 200–210 °C | as for the given extruder | Open the door or remove the lid — PLA does not like a warm chamber |
The most common mistakes
Printing the first layer with full cooling. A fan running from the start weakens adhesion — set 0% on the first layer and full power from the second or third.
A bed that is too hot. Values above 60 °C soften the lower part of the print and create a spread-out elephant foot — stick to 55–60 °C or print on a cold bed.
Printing fast without raising the temperature. At 100–120 mm/s the material has to melt faster, so a nozzle set to 205 °C will start under-extruding — move up to 225–230 °C.
Copying retraction from someone else's profile. Bowden needs 4–6 mm, direct drive only 0.5–1.0 mm — swapping the values gives you stringing or hotend clogs respectively.
Leaving prints in hot places. A car dashboard in summer or a windowsill in full sun exceeds 60 °C — a PLA print will come back from such a place bent.
Drying at too high a temperature. PLA softens from 60 °C, so a dryer set “like for PETG” will fuse the windings on the spool — stay at 30–40 °C for 2–4 hours.
Frequently asked questions
What nozzle temperature should I set for Porima PLA?
Start at 215 °C. The full working window is 200–230 °C: go down if you see stringing and blurred details, go up if layers bond poorly or you print above 100 mm/s.
Does Porima PLA require a heated bed?
No. The bed temperature range starts at 0 °C, so the filament also prints on a cold plate. If you have a heated bed, set 55–60 °C — the first layer will stick more reliably.
Does Porima PLA work with Bambu AMS and Creality CFS?
Yes, the filament is fully compatible with AMS and CFS multi-material systems. The stable 1.75 mm diameter with a ± 0.03 mm tolerance ensures smooth feeding and tool changes.
Does Porima PLA need drying before printing?
A fresh spool needs no drying. If the filament has been unpacked for a long time and you hear popping during extrusion, dry it for 2–4 hours at 30–40 °C — no higher, because PLA softens from 60 °C.
What temperature can a PLA print withstand?
Up to about 60 °C. Above that limit the material starts to soften and deform, so for use in a car, in the sun or near heat sources choose PETG, ASA or ABS.
Summary
Porima PLA is the material to start your 3D printing journey with, and the one you come back to for every “need it now” project: nozzle 215 °C, bed 55–60 °C (or cold), cooling 100% — and that is essentially the whole philosophy. The wide temperature window, the ± 0.03 mm tolerance and the same profile for 18 colours mean you will spend more time designing than calibrating.
If you are putting together materials to get started or looking for a proven colour for your next project, browse the full range in the PLA filament collection — you will also find Silk, Rainbow and Wood variants there, plus reinforced grades for more demanding applications.