Drying filament — pick the temperature and the time

What this is for: pick a material from the list and get the drying temperature and time straight from Porima's official FDM parameter table — for all twenty-five materials, including those we do not yet stock. No guessing and no copying from forums.

Drying is the one piece of maintenance in 3D printing that costs nothing but time and almost always pays off. Damp filament gives stringing, crackling in the nozzle, a matt and rough surface, bubbles in the wall and poor layer bonding. All of those symptoms look like settings errors, so people spend weeks fiddling with retraction instead of putting the spool in a dryer for four hours.

Choose your drying parameters

30–40 °C · 2–4 h

Temperature resistance per the manufacturer's label: 60 °C

Standard routine. Do not exceed 40 °C — above that temperature PLA starts to soften, the turns stick to one another and the spool can distort.

The values come straight from the manufacturer's official FDM parameter table. We do not modify them or top them up with estimates of our own.

Porima's full official drying matrix

Below are all twenty-five materials from the manufacturer's FDM parameter table, unabridged and unaveraged. The "temperature resistance" column is the manufacturer's own label, not the result of a test to a standard — Porima publishes neither HDT nor Vicat figures and states no test standard. We include it because it shows how large a margin separates the drying temperature from the temperature at which the material starts to work.

Material Drying temperature Time Temp. resistance (manufacturer's label)
PLA 30–40 °C 2–4 h 60 °C
Tough PLA 30–40 °C 2–4 h 60 °C
Hyper PLA 30–40 °C 2–4 h 60 °C
Silk PLA 30–40 °C 2–4 h 60 °C
PLA Premium 30–40 °C 2–4 h 60 °C
PLA Army 30–40 °C 2–4 h 60 °C
PLA Stone 30–40 °C 2–4 h 60 °C
PLA Wood 30–40 °C 2–4 h 60 °C
PLA Star (Sparkle) 30–40 °C 2–4 h 60 °C
PLA Pastel 30–40 °C 2–4 h 60 °C
Smart PLA 30–40 °C 2–4 h 60 °C
Eco PLA 30–40 °C 2–4 h 60 °C
PLA / CF 55 °C 4 h 70 °C
PETG 30–40 °C 2–4 h 85 °C
PETG Transparent 30–40 °C 2–4 h 85 °C
HT PETG 50–60 °C 6–12 h 125 °C
ABS 40–60 °C 6–12 h 100 °C
Eco ABS 40–60 °C 6–12 h 100 °C
ABS / CF 40–60 °C 6–12 h 110 °C
ASA 40–60 °C 6–12 h 110 °C
PC/ABS 40–60 °C 6–12 h 120 °C
PA (nylon) 65–80 °C 8–12 h — mandatory 150 °C
HIPS Drying not required — non-hygroscopic material 85 °C
TPU Flex 98A 40–60 °C 2–4 h 70 °C
Easy Flex 30–40 °C 2–4 h 80–100 °C

Source: Porima's official FDM parameter table, the "drying" and "temperature resistance" fields. Temperature resistance is a manufacturer's declaration, not HDT or Vicat — Porima publishes no test results to any standard. Fuller guide: drying filament step by step. Remaining parameters: print temperature chart.

Two cases that need saying plainly

PA (nylon) — drying mandatory, not recommended

Against nylon the manufacturer's FDM parameter table carries a note that appears nowhere else: 8–12 h at 65–80 °C, mandatory. This is not a suggestion for when things go wrong. Nylon takes up moisture from the air so fast that a spool taken out of its bag in the morning can be crackling in the nozzle by the afternoon. A freshly opened packet needs drying too, because the material had time to pick up moisture during packing and transport.

The practical conclusion: with PA, do not just dry before printing — print directly from the dryer, feeding the filament to the extruder through a tube. PA is in any case a material that requires an enclosed, heated chamber and a bed at 90–120 °C, so those 8–12 hours are added to a procedure that is already demanding.

HIPS — drying not required

The second exception runs the other way. Against HIPS the manufacturer wrote plainly: not required, non-hygroscopic material. Putting it in a dryer will do no harm, but it will improve nothing. If HIPS is giving you trouble, look for the cause in bed temperature, the chamber or nozzle cleanliness, not in moisture. HIPS dissolves in D-limonene, so its natural role is as a support material alongside ABS.

How to dry so that it actually achieves something

  1. Take off the bag, the insert and anything that is not the spool — desiccant inside a closed dryer only gets in the way.
  2. Set the temperature from the table and do not exceed the upper value. With PLA the difference between 40 and 60 °C is the difference between a dry spool and a fused block.
  3. Run the full time. Halving the cycle removes moisture from the surface but not from the core of the strand, and it will return to the material within an hour.
  4. After drying, move the spool into an airtight container with desiccant, or print straight away.
  5. With PA, TPU and HT PETG consider printing directly from the dryer — these materials pick up moisture faster than you can print them.
  6. Write the date you opened the packet on the spool with a marker. It is the simplest diagnostic there is.

The overriding rule: change one parameter at a time. Dry the filament and print the same test without touching anything else — only then do you know how much of the problem was moisture.

Frequently asked questions

Is an oven any good for drying filament?

Only conditionally, and only for materials with a higher range. The problem is that domestic ovens have a wide thermostat hysteresis — a setting of 50 °C can mean swings of a dozen or more degrees, and with PLA, whose upper drying limit is 40 °C, the risk is real. A filament dryer, or a food dehydrator with adjustable temperature, holds the temperature far more steadily.

How do I know the filament needs drying at all?

Listen to the nozzle: crackling and hissing are water vapour. Look at the surface: matt, rough patches where it should be smooth. Check whether strings and bubbles have appeared. We have collected the full list of symptoms on the wet filament page.

Can drying be repeated many times?

Yes — within the stated temperature ranges there is no reason to limit the number of cycles. What does harm is exceeding the temperature, not the repetition itself.

Can dried filament be stored without a dryer?

It can, provided the container is genuinely airtight and holds active desiccant. An ordinary zip bag slows the process but does not stop it. With PLA and PETG that is good enough for weeks; with PA, for hours.

Why are xPLA, TPU 95A and Rainbow PLA not here?

Because those items are not in the manufacturer's official FDM parameter table, and we are not going to fill in parameters by analogy with similar-sounding names. We have asked Porima to complete the FDM parameter table. Until we hear back, the better reference point is caution: treat them as materials from the same family, but start from the lower end of the temperature range and the shorter time.

Related tools and pages

Drying only works when you know the right values for your material. Porima filaments are produced to a ±0.03 mm diameter tolerance, and we publish the manufacturer's full official print data — you don't have to guess it. Our warehouse is near Poznań, in Swarzędz.

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